‘Every Culinary Artist Must Train At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Dining Spot Earns Fourth on Ranking of London’s Best Dining Destinations.

When assembling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This honour has made the family totally surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” says a proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their small restaurant earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has retained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary triumph.

Abigail Dennis
Abigail Dennis

A tech journalist and gaming enthusiast with a decade of experience covering industry trends and hardware innovations.